Caring for your knife
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BeautifulWarriorWomen.com's sporting knives are designed for cutting. Strong impacts or twisting forces may damage the knife or lock mechanism, and may result in the blade folding or otherwise failing during use. Any such use could result in severe injury. On lock-blade models, always check to insure the locking mechanism is engaged prior to use. Keep your blade sharp, this will reduce risk of injury, as a sharp blade is safer than using a dull blade.

Cleaning Your Knife
After using your knife, it is a good practice to clean and dry your knife (the entire knife, not just the blade). Even though most of our blades are made with corrosion-resistant stainless steel, prolonged exposure to the elements can cause the steel's surface to oxidize. Folding knives should be kept clean of debris, particularly the locking device on lock-blade knives.

It is all right to clean your blade with chemical solvents such as Acetone, nail polish remover, MEK, alcohol or paint thinner. Avoid harsh detergents that contain chlorine (mostly powders, including some for washing dishes and clothes), which can accelerate corrosion of the blade steel. Avoid prolonged immersion in liquids (water, solvents, etc.). This can have a detrimental effect on not only the metal parts, but handles made of wood or other porous materials.

Lubricating your knife
Periodically, and always after cleaning, apply a small amount of lubricant to the working parts of the knife, particularly the pivot points of a folding knife. Then apply a thin film of lubricant to the entire surface of the blade. This will help prevent surface oxidation and corrosion from moisture. We suggest using a light weight oil such as gun oil or machine oil.

Sharpening your knife
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Never sharpen your knife on a power-driven grinding wheel. This can burn the temper from your blade, which will make the edge brittle and more likely to chip or crack.

Sharpening stones may be used dry or wet. When using them wet, use water, not oil, as a lubricant (Old time mountain men use spit too).

Sharpening Procedures

Sharpening straight blades (non-serrated)

1. Start with a course grit sharpening stone if the blade is very dull, otherwise use a fine grit stone for touchups.
2. Establish the correct angle for your knife type. On one bevel sharpened knives, double the angle below, if there are two bevels (both sides of one edge are sharp) then use the numbers below. Please note that these are general angles for the type of knife listed. Typically a larger angle is not as sharp, but lasts longer for heavier use, such as chopping. A smaller angle produces a sharper edge, but it will dull faster under heavy use.
   • Kitchen knives and skinners 20º
   • Pocket knives and hunting knives 25º
   • Hunting and utility use knives 25-28º
   • Long lasting edge on a heavy duty camp knife 30º
3. Make a few strokes on one side of the blade, sliding the cutting edge first onto the stone. If the blade is sharp on both sides, turn the blade over and repeat on the other side of the blade. Do this repeatedly until sharp. Be careful not to sharpen too many times on one side as this may create a burr on the edge. Always alternate sides (if the knife is sharp on both sides) after a few strokes. It is a good idea to keep a piece of paper handy to test the edge. A sharp edge will slice through paper easily. You should not have to use a sawing motion to cut the paper, but if it cuts with a gentle pull, the blade is sharp.

Sharpening serrated blades
Do not use a flat sharpening stone. We recommend using a hone that is designed specifically for serrated blades.

Cleaning your sharpening stone

1. Always dry your sharpening stone after each use and before storing.
2. Occasionally clean your stone with soapy water and mild brush (an old toothbrush works well).

Storing and Protecting your Knife
The best way to store your knife is in a vinyl roll with a soft cloth interior.  The roll should be unrolled when in storage to allow air-flow. If you want to display your knife collection, cases with felt interiors and Plexiglas® tops are sufficient as long as they are kept out of direct sunlight. The sun will fade the color of the handle. Make sure that you take your knives out of storage from time to time and look them over for rust spots and clean them.

Your knife should also be kept at a constant temperature. If your collection has been in cold weather and is moved to a warm environment, condensation will occur and can cause rust if you are not careful. If this happens to your knives, make sure to wipe them down with a soft cloth.

If you collect celluloid handled knives, keep them separate from your other knives and check them for trouble spots more often. They are made from a petroleum based material which emits fumes that promote rust.

Do not store your knives in leather sheaths for prolonged periods of time or any other leather holders. Leather contains tannic acid that will promote rust.

Knife Safety
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1. Cut away from your body.
2. If you drop your knife, let it fall - don't attempt to catch it. (My father stabbed his leg once doing this. He tried to catch it with his legs instinctivly and ended up with it sticking out of his thigh instead!)
3. Don't run with a knife.
4. Don't throw a knife to anyone - hand it to them handle first.
5. Don't point a knife at anyone.
6. If blade doesn't lock open, watch for collapsing blade.
7. Keep your knife folded/sheathed when carrying or not using.
8. Do not sharpen on a power grinder-use a sharpening stone. (using a power grinder will make the edge brittle and void the warranty)
9. Use the right tool for the job. Don't use a knife as a pry-bar, etc.
10. Use in a well-lit area so you can see what you are doing.
11. Do not use a knife on "live" electrical items like appliances.
12. Keep your knife clean, lubed and sharp (safer than dull).
13. If you get cut, seek first aid immediately.

Knife Terminology
There's a lot that goes into the making of a quality knife that will have the strength and edge-retention that ensures consistent, reliable performance for years. Here's a useful compilation of the terminology used in the knife industry.

Parts of a Knife
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Back: The unsharpened side of a blade.

Bail: A half loop at the end of some knives; used to clip and carry.

Belly: The curved part of the blade’s edge.

Blade lock: The mechanical part of a knife that engages or disengages the blade of a folding knife. A back lock is the most common, others have a liner lock or some other mechanism.

Bolsters: Metal covers that are located between the handle and the blades. Also found on the rear of a single end knife; usually made from nickel silver, brass, or stainless steel. 

Choil: An unsharpened part of the blade located opposite the point on the sharpened side.

Clip: An accessory on some knives used to attach a knife to clothing or a belt.

Cover: The material covering the liner between the bolsters. 

Crink: A bend at the beginning of the tang of a multi-blade knife that prevents the blades from rubbing one another. 

Easy Opener: This is a style of knife handle that has a curve shaped cut out that exposes enough of the blade for the operator to grasp the blades between two fingers for easy opening.

Edge: The sharpened side of the blade.

Edge Bevel: The honed part of the blade that starts after the blade bevel and continues to the cutting edge.

Front/Mark Side: It is the side of the knife with the company logo or the side that the master blade folds to.

Guard: The metal piece located where the blade and the handle meet. It is designed to stop the hand from slipping into the blade. 

Handle: The handle of a knife serves several purposes. It serves as a sheath, handle, and spring mechanism. Materials used in constructing handles range from deer antler to bone, hardwoods, synthetics, and various metals.

Kick: A projection on the front end of the tang that keeps the blade from touching the spring.

Lanyard: A piece of leather or nylon attached to the butt of a knife used for carrying or holding or hanging from the belt, neck, or wrist, sometimes referred to as a thong.

Liner: An interior part of a knife frame located between the handle and blade edge (when closed) used to prevent damage, usually made of a soft metal that resists corrosion.

Liner lock: A lock incorporated into the liner of the handle.

Lock back: A type of knife that has a locking mechanism located on the back of a folding knife. The mechanism keeps the blade open in a safely locked position when open. 

Long Pull: This term refers to an extra long nail mark that runs the length of the back of the blade; from the tang to the swedge.

Mark side: It is the side of the blade with the nail slot and company logo.

Master Blade/Pocket Blade: This is the largest blade in a multi-blade pocket knife.

Nail: A pin that holds the knife together.

Nail Mark or Nail Nick: Located on pocket knife blades. It is a semi curved slot cut into the steel used for opening with a thumb nail. 

Pile side: The opposite side to the front or mark side. Also called the reverse side. 

Pins: Metal pieces used to hold a pocket knife's parts together. They are usually made of brass or nickel silver.

Reverse: The opposite to the side of the blade with the nail slot and company logo.

Rocker Barlock: A lock that uses a spring and rocker bar with a pawl, to lock the blade of a knife into an open position.

Scales: The two halves of a handle.

Serration: Edge bevel that has teeth cut into the blade. 

Shield: A metal inlay on the handle of a knife. It is often placed there as a trademark or decoration. Many times, it will have a name on it or a symbol that identifies the maker.

Slip joint: A term used for a folding knife that does not have a locking mechanism. These knives rely on a back spring for resistance in keeping the knife open.

Spine: The unsharpened edge of a blade opposite to the cutting edge, also known as the back. 

Spring: A flat piece of steel kept under pressure by the rivet assembly that holds the blade in an open position. There are one end springs or two end springs. One end springs hold a single blade open, while two end springs hold two blades open; one on each end. 

Swedge: An unsharpened bevel on the spine or back of the blade, usually toward the tip.

Tang: The unsharpened portion of a blade where the handle attaches.

• Full Tang- The steel of the blade extends through the full shape of the handle. This is the strongest of all blade configurations.
• Partial Tang- Tang extends partway into the handle.
• Through Tang- A narrow tang extends through the handle.
• Rat-Tail Tang- A bolt or threaded pommel secures the blade to the handle.
• Half Tang- Approximately ½ of the handle is the tang.
• Encapsulated Tang- Handle is molded around the tang.
• Push Tang- The tang is pushed into the handle and fixed in place.

Tang Stamp: Any markings located on the tang of a knife. Most often, the stamp will have the manufacturer's name, date identification, or other informative markings. 

Walk and Talk: This describes the actions of a pocket knife when opened and closed. The walk describes the feel of the tang as it moves along the spring when the blade is opened. The talk refers to the sound of the knife when the blade is closed. A well adjusted knife "walks and talks" (has a nice strong snap and has blades that slide smoothly across the springs).

Types of Knives
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Assisted Opening Knife: A knife with a spring loaded opening mechanism that, unlike a switchblade, requires the user to initiate the opening with his thumb.

Bowie Knife: A large fixed blade hunting knife named after the famous frontiersman, James Bowie.

Canoe: A twin bladed pocket knife with a canoe-shaped handle that curves upward at both ends.

Cattleman’s Knife: A knife with a clip or spear master blade, a spey blade and a leather punch.

Dagger: Normally a spear point or saber point blade, can also be a narrow stiletto-type knife.

Dirk: From the 17th century, has a dagger-like blade and grips make of ebony.

Fillet Knife: A specialty knife used for filleting fish, a long slim extremely sharp blade with a fine point.

Fixed Blade Knife: The blade does not fold closed. A Bowie knife is an example of a fixed blade knife.

Guthook: Used by hunters for skinning and gutting, has a V or U shaped notch on the back edge.

Katar: Hindu knife with double edge blade ranging from a few inches to sword length.

Khanjar: Arabic for knife, a double edged dagger with a curved blade and a pistol grip shaped handle.

Khyber Knife: A knife from Afghanistan and India, with a long straight back that is heavily ribbed, tapers to a fine point, worn under the sash.

Liner Lock Knife: It has a strip cut into one of the two metal plates that line the knife’s handle and sandwich the blade. The strip is bent inwards to form a flat spring.

Locking Knives: A folding knife that has a mechanism that locks the blade into place when open, can be manual or mechanically assisted.

Machetes: A large knife used for removing vegetation, cutting wood and other heavy duty duties.

Multi-tools: A tool with several different features including one or more blades, and other useful tools such as scissors and screwdriver bit.

Serpentine: Used to describe the shape of a handle. Serpentine knives have an s curve, much like a snake or serpent (hence the name). 

Skinner: Designed for intricate skinning, it has a short and deep profile.

Slip Joint Knife: Sometimes called a friction lock or pen knife, there is a steel spring in the shape of a bar, called a back spring, which forms the spine of the handle. Friction offers resistance when opening the blade. To open, use the nail mark to pull it out.

Stiletto: A dagger with a very slim blade intended for thrusting.

Switchblade: A knife that opens automatically when a button is pushed. These knives are illegal in most states.

Types of Blades
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Blade Bevel: The ground-away portion of the knife blade that tapers from the spine to the edge.
Note that the blade bevel does not include the cutting edge called the edge bevel. 

Clip Point: The clip blade is generally the most common blade found on American folding knives. They have a concave curve from the back of the blade to the point, and a cutting edge that slopes upward to the point. These features make them extremely versatile and enable them to perform almost any cutting task. Some of these blades have a longer concave curve on the top for a narrower blade. The narrower blade has a sharper tip that is better suited for detail work. The narrow clips are often called California clips, muskrat clips, or Turkish clips.

Clasp: A style of jack knife that curves upward at the end. 

Concave ground: A grind that results in a blade bevel that tapers from the spine to the edge in an arched manner. It is the easiest grind to keep sharp, but has a weak edge that will chip easier than most other grinds. 

Coping Blade: This is a narrow blade with a sharp point. The edge is flat like a sheepsfoot, but the back angles sharply from the spine. It is ideal for cutting patterns on a flat surface. Also, their thin size makes them handy when cutting in tight spaces.

Drop-Point Blade: The drop-point style blade has a convex curve on the back that slopes downward toward the point, and a cutting edge that slopes upward in a slightly more dramatic fashion to the point. These features create a wide tip that is very stout and ideal for heavier tasks. The wider tip is not as handy for penetrating through an object as the spear and clip blade.

Ductility: The blade's ability to flex, bend or take an impact without fracturing. If the amount of flex or bend is small before cracking or breaking, the blade is considered brittle.

Edge Grinds: The angle and design of the bevel that is ground away to form the knife blade’s edge. There are different types of edge grinds.

Edge Retention: A measure of the blade's ability to hold an edge by resisting abrasion and wear. The most objective test is the CATRA machine, a computer-controlled testing machine that gives accurate and repeatable data for an objective evaluation of edge sharpness and consistency.

Hollow ground: A grind that results in a blade bevel that tapers inward in an arched manner from the spine and slightly back outward to the start of the cutting edge.

Hook Blade: The edge on this blade curves in a concave manner. Traditionally used for gardening.

Initial Sharpness: The sharpness of the blade "out of the box," and the sharpness that is the goal when re-sharpening.

New Grind: This term describes a knife that has an even taper from the back of the blade to the tang.

Pen Blade: This blade is very common on knives with two or more blades. It is popular because of its versatility in performing smaller tasks. The back and the edge of the blade generally slope evenly (at the same degree) to the point. They are much like the spear blade but are smaller. These blades were originally designed to sharpen quill pens.

Pruner's Blade/Hawkbill Blade: These blades have an edge that curves in a concave fashion to the point, which resembles a hawk's bill. Because of this, they are often called hawkbill blades. They were originally used for pruning shrubs and fruit trees, but are now more handy for cutting sheetrock, carpet, roofing paper and other such materials.

Retention: The degree to which a blade holds an edge.

Saber Ground: A grind that results in a blade bevel that is flat from the spine to about the middle of the blade where it then begins to taper toward the edge. Ideal for heavy chores.

Sheepsfoot Blade: This blade has a flat cutting edge, and a back that slopes to a point. The blade looks much like the hoof of a sheep. This blade is ideal in yielding a clean cut on objects lying on a flat surface. 

Serrated: The edge of the blade has a number of ridges or serrations, it is a very effective cutting edge.

Spear Point: This blade has a back and cutting edge that curve at the same degree and meet at the point. Some spear blades are thicker than others. The thinner blades are ideal for penetrating through an object, while the thicker versions are handy for heavier tasks.

Spey Blade: This blade has a very blunt point that makes it unsuitable for penetrating objects, but ideal for skinning. It is much less likely to be accidentally poked through a surface. These blades were originally developed for use in castrating animals.

Tanto: It usually has a chisel grind on one side of the edge and an angular look.

Trailing Point: This blade is similar to an upswept skinner with a long curved edge, primarily a skinning knife.

Wharncliff Blade: These blades have a strongly curved back and a flat edge. This design results in a needle type point that is ideal for cutting cleanly on flat surfaces and for cutting meticulous designs.

Knife Materials
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ABS: Impact resistant plastic.

Alloy Steel: Steel that has been enhanced with additional elements (chromium, molybdenum, vanadium, nickel) is called alloy steel.

Aluminum: An extremely lightweight metal that provides heavy duty durability.

Bone: Bones from cow’s legs are used to make fine knife handles.

Carbon: Often found in knife blades; an element present in all steels. Increasing the carbon content increases the hardness of the blade.

Chromium: A major element in martensitic stainless steel that improves hardenability, wear resistance and corrosion resistance.

Coatings:
Some manufacturers use coatings to add beauty to our products and enhance performance characteristics.

• Anodized Aluminum: Anodizing hardens aluminum and produces a porous, oxide coating that can absorb dyes. This makes it possible to produce colored surfaces that are extremely scratch-resistant. This is mainly used on knife handles.
• Boron Carbide: Boron carbide produces a durable coating that is chip, crack, peel and heat resistant to 2732º F. It is impervious to most harsh chemicals, virtually eliminating corrosion and maintaining lubrication longer. Mainly used on blades.
• E Coating: A black paint applied to the metal blade through ionization.
• Teflon: Used to coat the blade to make it more resistant to particles sticking.
• Titanium-Oxide: Titanium oxide is a low-temperature PVD film that is durable and decorative. It results in rainbow colors through the application of electrical currents of different intensities to the titanium oxide. Just one-half micron thick, it offers tough, ceramic-like wear properties and is scratch resistant. 
  

Corrosion Resistance: A blade's ability to resist rusting which is the result of exposure to the environment or elements.

Damascus steel: Very beautiful steel that is crafted by incorporating both hard and soft steel and welding and layering them together. 

Delrin®: A dyeable plastic, easy to mold.

G-10: A processed material made of layers of fiberglass. Exhibits a high degree of durability and strength. Provides excellent impact and tensile strength and is a good electrical insulator.

High Carbon Steel: This describes any steel that is made up of .5% carbon or more. Blades made with high carbon steel sharpen more easily and hold an edge better, but are more susceptible to corrosion. The higher the carbon content, the more this is the case.

Inlays: Any material inlaid into the handles of a pocket knife.

Jigged bone: Bone that has been given a textured finish. This is done for better grip. It also adds to a knife's look. It was first used to imitate genuine stag scales.

Kraton®: Man-made rubber.

Kydex®: Supertough high performance thermo plastic.

Martensite: Steels capable of being brought to a very hard condition are called martensitic steels. This type is best suited for knife blades.

Micarta®: Layers of cloth or paper and resin formed into a strong material for handles, resembles a wood grain.

Molybdenum: An element added to steel to improve hardenability, tensile strength and resistance to corrosion and pitting.

Mother of Pearl: The shell of the pearl oyster from the South Pacific, a popular knife handle material.

Nickel: An alloy addition that improves steel's toughness, hardenability and corrosion resistance. Nickel is a major element in steel used for kitchen cutlery and diving knives.

Obsidian: Volcanic glass, used for knife blades in primitive times.

Phenolic: Phenolic is a hard, dense material made by applying heat and pressure to layers of paper or glass cloth impregnated with synthetic resin. It is strong, lightweight, heat and corrosion resistant.

Plate: Flat sheets of steel that are turned into knife blades by laser cutting.

Polyamide/PVC: Lighweight plastic, extremely durable, performs in all weather conditions. Ideal for outdoor use on working knives.

Stag: Deer antlers used to make beautiful knife handles.

STEEL:

Stainless steel: There are many different grades of stainless steel, but almost all stainless steel blades contain a large amount of high carbon, so none are completely "stainless". All are subject to corrosion from body acid, humidity, salt, etc. The term has come to mean that the steel has less carbon and more chromium, and thus will stain less than other steels.

A2: Execellent air hardening tool steel

ATS 55: No molybdenum

440C: Most popular high carbon stainless steel, stain resistant

154CM: 4%molybdenum, corrosion resistant, very tough

Compound Steel: Carbon steels with additional elements, less than 13% chromium.

D2: High chromium content, stain resistant

W2: Tough steel by radical cooling with water, likely to break

L6: Nickel in this alloy, tough and wear resistant

Carbon Steel: Alloys of iron and carbon in varied proportions, always over .5% carbon.

01: 1% carbon, high wear resistance

1095: A high carbon steel, sharpens easily, will rust if not maintained.

Damascus steel: Combinations of two different steels that are pattern welded.

Titanium: It has a high strength-to-weight ratio, even at high temperatures. It exhibits excellent corrosion resistance, even in marine conditions.

Vanadium: A material added to steel to improve hardenability and promote fine grain, an important factor in wear resistance.

Wood: Many types of woods are used to make knife handles.

• Birdseye
• African Black Wood - Rich black with dark brown graining
• Cocabola - a stable wood that won’t expand or contract
• Pakkawood - forced plastic resins into natural wood, very durable, can be polished to a high shine.
• Desert Ironwood - Native to the Sonoran desert, a dense tight grained wood, takes a high polish.

Zytel®: Fiber reinforced plastic

Manufacturing Processess
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Anodizing: An electrochemical process that toughens the naturally occurring protective oxide of aluminum, producing brilliant colors that resist scratches and wear.

Bead Blasting: Silicone beads are blown in a controlled environment to create a texture on a knife.

Black Oxide: A coating put on military knife blades to minimize all reflection.

Cryo Edging: Freezing a blade to -200º F to harden the steel.

Fine Blanking: A fine blanking machine is used to press a knife blade out of a coil of steel using a specifically shaped die. Fine blanking produces consistently accurate parts that require little additional machining.

Flat ground: Also referred to as a V grind, it results in a blade bevel that tapers in a uniform fashion from the spine to the edge bevel. Most pocket knives are flat ground.

Hardness: The compactness of the steel molecules determines the hardness of the steel. Harder steel tends to hold an edge longer, while softer steel is easier to sharpen. A blade’s hardness is measured on a Rockwell C scale, a testing process which is utilized and accepted worldwide. A Rockwell hardness above 60 will be difficult to sharpen, but a hardness below 56 won't hold an edge very well.

Hardenability: The steel's ability to be hardened.

Heat-Treating/Tempering: Heat-treating is the process by which the cut steel blades are prepared to make them suitable for their end use in a specific type of knife. Heat-treating imparts special qualities to metals, such as hardness, strength, ductility and others. When heating and subsequent cooling are applied to metals in their solid state, the physical and structural properties of these metals are changed (but not the chemical composition). Since different steels are used for different types of knives, they require slightly different heat-treating processes to acquire the desired properties.

1. First, the blades are heated to a high temperature, then cooled to room temperature.
2. Next, the blades are lowered into a cryogenic freezer and subjected to below zero temperatures, then brought back to room temperature.
3. Lastly, the blades are placed in an oven where the temperature is slowly raised to between 350 – 950º F, depending on the end use of the steel.

To achieve the desired properties, some blades are tempered more than once.

Laser Cutting: Large blades and "hard steel" blades are cut from sheets of steel on a state-of-the-art computer-controlled laser machine that has the capacity to "laser out" blades to a specified shape.

Manufacturability: The ease in which steel can be machined, blanked, ground and heat-treated.

Rockwell Hardness Test: A standard test used to determine the hardness of steel whereby a diamond point is forced in a finished blade at a set pressure. The depth of penetration is then measured and compared to a “C” scale, written as “Rc”. The higher the number, the harder the steel. Most blade steels range from Rc55-61 C scale.

Scrimshaw: The art of cutting designs into the handle of a whale bone or ivory knife.

Strength: Steel's ability to resist applied forces.

Tempering: The final step in the heat-treating steel process to improve toughness.

Tensile Strength: Ability to resist breaking. Ultimate Tensile Strength is the maximum load per square inch a blade can sustain before breaking.

Toughness: A blade's ability to absorb energy by impact prior to fracturing.

SWORD TERMINOLOGY
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Backsword -- A sword blade, which has a cutting edge only on one side. Most commonly found on curved blades, such as sabers, falchion, and cutlass.

Basket -- An arrangement of steel bars, and panels that form a basket-like cage around the grip (and the wielder's hand). These are most commonly found on Scottish basket-hilted swords, and European rapiers.

Blade -- The section of the sword, which is not part of the hilt.

Boshi- The curved edge of the point on a Samurai sword.

Chappe -- A flap of leather attached to a sword's crossguard, which serves to protect the mouth of the scabbard and prevent water from entering. Also called a Rain Guard.

Cruciform -- A generic term for any sword which when inverted point downward will form the shape of a crucifix. This was, to a degree, a religious symbol to the knights of the crusading era.

Daisho -- The primary swords of the Samurai, a set of the Katana and Wakizashi.

Edge -- The cutting portion of the sword's blade.

Ferrule -- A metal band at either end of the grip used to secure the leather or wire wraps. Also used as a decoration.

Finger guard -- A small crescent shape bar which extends from the sword's guard, and rises parallel to the sword's ricasso, which enables a user to loop their finger over the guard (which increases point control, but decreases cutting power), without fear of being injured by an opponent's blade sliding down their own.

Fuchi -- The collar on the guard of a Japanese sword.

Fuller -- A groove down the center of a blade, used to both lighten a sword, and conserve sword steel (making a wider blade possible with less material). Often mistakenly called a "Blood Groove."

Full tang -- A sword tang that passes the entire length of the grip, and is attached directly to the sword's pommel.

Grip -- The part of the hilt held by the user (the handle).

Guard/Cross-guard -- The section of the sword hilt whose purpose is to protect the wielder's hand. It may take of the shape of a simple bar, a steel basket, a flat disc, or several other forms.

Habaki -- The blade collar on a Japanese sword.

Hamon -- The "line" or visual characteristic typical of Japanese blades caused by the use of differential hardening.

Hilt -- All of a sword, except for the blade, including the cross-guard, grip, and pommel.

Kashiri -- The pommel on a Japanese sword.

Katana -- A long Japanese sword.

Kissaki -- The point of a blade on a Samurai sword.

Kogatana -- A mini Tanto Japanese sword.

Kozuka -- The grip on a small Japanese knife.

Knuckle guard -- A curved bar which extends from the guard to pommel, designed to prevent the user's hand from being cut by a sliding blow from an opponent's weapon.

Menuki -- The decorative ornament on the handle of a Japanese sword.

Mune -- The back of the blade on a Samurai sword.

Pas d'An –- The portion of a rapier's guard, which surrounds the base of the sword blade.

Point -- The tip of the sword's blade.

Pommel -- A counter-weight at the end of a sword's hilt, used to balance the sword. Also may be used as a striking implement.

Quillon(s) -- Renaissance term for the crossguard. Used almost exclusively when referring to rapiers.

Quillon block -- Section of the rapier's hilt where the guard's arms (both bars, and rings) are attached. The tang of the sword blade also passes through this point, with the ricasso on one side, and the sword's grip on the other.

Rat-tail tang -- A more modern method of manufacturing involving a small diameter rod being welded onto a normal tang. This method has proven faulty in many low-end swords in that they often break due to poor welds.

Ricasso -- Any narrowing or thickening of a sword's blade, which remains unsharpened, just above the guard. Increases the user's ability to loop a finger over the guard, to increase control of the point.

Saya -- The scabbard for a Japanese sword.

Scent stopper -- Pommel type which resembles the stopper in an antique perfume jar.

Shinogi -- The grind edge of the blade on a Japanese sword.

Tachi -- The original Samurai sword worn suspended from an intricate belt.

Tang -- The section of the sword blade that the hilt is attached to. This part of the sword is not visible when the blade is fully mounted.

Tanto -- A short Japanese sword.

Tsuba -- The hand guard on a Japanese sword.

Tsuka -- The handle or grip of a Japanese sword.

Tsukaito -- The cord wrapping on the handle of a Japanese sword.

Wakizashi -- A medium length Japanese sword.

Welded tang -- A tang where the steel of the blade has had another piece of steel (very often low carbon steel) welded on to it as an extension.

Wheel -- A pommel that is in the shape of a flat disc. It may have added features, such as beveled edges, or raised center sections.

Wire-wrap -- Spun and twisted metal wire (may be iron, brass, bronze, copper, etc.), which is then wrapped around the sword grip, often used to increase the ability to grip a sword's handle. Also a sign of wealth, as these grips tended to be more expensive to manufacture.

Yakiba -- The edge of the blade on a Samurai sword.

THE FUNCTIONALITY OF A SWORD
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It is extremely important that the sword have good balance (which differs according to the intended use and resulting design of the sword) and good "harmonic balance," or how the sword design carries the vibration resulting from the cutting action. In addition, it is important, (again based on the sword's intended use), that the blade be properly hardened and tempered. Here are definitions of some important terms relating to a sword's performance characteristics:

BL: Blade Length

Blade geometry: The shaping of a sword's blade, both in the profile, and distal views. It is largely responsible for the blade's specific use.

"CoB": The Center of Balance (also known as the "CoG"- Center of Gravity, or "PoB" - Point of Balance) is the point along the blade where the sword has equal mass on either side.

How to determine "CoB": To test your sword, place a ruler or yardstick on edge and move the blade up and down from hilt to point until it balances. Then measure from the hilt to that point.

"CoP": The Center of Percussion is the point along the length of the blade where there is little or no vibration when the blade is struck on an object. When this section of the blade is used in striking, it transmits the least amount of shock and vibration to the user's hand, and also will provide the deepest penetration in a target. A simple test to establish the "CoP" is to hold the sword vertically (with the point up) and lightly tap the side of the pommel. The point in the blade that doesn't vibrate is "CoP."

Forging: Heating the stock piece of steel in a forge (or other heat source) and hammering into shape on an anvil. It is more conservative of steel, but can also be more time consuming. Regardless of how close to shape a piece is forged, a small bit of grinding is still necessary to finish the piece. Neither technique (forging or stock-removal) is better than the other; they are just different methods to achieve the same results (although forging is much more romantic and takes a great deal of individual skill).

Hardening (Quenching): Once the forging or stock removal process is completed, a blade is heated to critical temperature (point where the steel is non-magnetic, approx. 1400º F depending on the steel) and then cooled quickly in a type of quench medium. This process hardens the blade, so that it may retain a cutting edge without wearing quickly. Quench mediums can vary depending on the type of steel being used. They include water, brine (salt water), oil (natural and synthetic), and modern quenching polymers.

OL: Overall Length

Stock-Removal: Using a grinder to completely shape a stock piece of steel into a sword. This technique may be slightly faster, but also is more wasteful of steel, as instead of changing the shape (as in forging), it is grinding it away. Neither technique (forging or stock-removal) is better than the other; they are just different methods to achieve the same results (although forging is much more romantic and takes a great deal of individual skill).

"Sweet spot": The sweet spot on a sword often correlates to the "CoP" (Center of Percussion- see below), and is the place on a sword's blade which will deliver the strongest blow, without losing power due to vibration.

Tempering: When a blade is hardened, it is very brittle as it comes out of the quench, and if struck on a hard object can actually shatter. Tempering is a thermal heat-treatment where the blade is heated to a temperature below that which the blade was hardened at (usually between 350-500 degrees F), and is held at this temperature for a predetermined length of time. This reduces the hardness very slightly, but greatly reduces the brittleness and the amount of stress in the blade.

Differential Tempering: In this process a blade is through hardened (see below) to a high degree, and then heat is applied to the spine of the blade to make it softer and more flexible. This leaves the edges hard, but the body soft enough to withstand shocks and impacts. This can be accomplished in a number of ways. Tempering tongs are simple tools that consist of a standard set of tongs that have a bar welded to each of the jaws. The tongs are heated and applied to the spine of the blade. This softens the blade, but leaves the edge hardness intact.

Through Hardening: Quenching a blade so that a consistent hardness exists throughout the blade's thickness. With through hardening, there needs to be a compromise between having an edge hard enough to retain its sharpness, and having a softer, more flexible body that won't break when it is used.

Differential Hardening: Quenching a blade so that the edges are harder than the spine or body of the blade. The Japanese sword is the most common example of this type of quenching. The spine of the blade is coated with a clay mixture, then heated and quenched. The thick clay coating on the spine acts like an insulator and causes the coated portion of the blade to cool more slowly (the slower the cooling, the softer the steel). This style of heat-treating is what is responsible for the curvature in a Japanese blade, because only one edge is hardened (hardened steel has a larger grain size than softer steel). There are a number of smiths today that use this method on double-edged sword blades. The hardening on both edges causes the blade to remain straight. The use of clay is also responsible for the visual effects (hamon) in the steel.

Harmonic Balancing: Adjusting the weight of the pommel, and length of the hilt, in relation to the weight of the blade, in order to establish a "Harmonic Node" (see below) within the grip where the user's hand grasps the hilt. The harmonic balance of a sword may be determined through a similar process as that used to find the "CoP." In this instance, reverse the sword's direction (so that the blade is point down), and grasp the grip just above the guard. Again, gently tap the pommel with the heel of your hand. If you feel vibration in your fingertips, move them slightly up or down the grip and repeat. Once you locate the section of the grip that doesn't vibrate, you'll be able to determine the "harmonic balance" of the sword. Different swords will have this second node of non-vibration in different locations. Thrusting swords will require it to be nearer (and sometimes within) the guard, while cutting swords will need it placed around the position of the index, middle, and ring fingers of the user's hand.

Harmonic Node: A point in the sword where vibration is either minimal or non-existent. There are typically at least two of these "Nodes" within the length of a sword, one in the blade (also known as CoP) and one in the grip.

Rockwell hardness: A modern steel hardness scale, with a range of 20-80 points (on the Rockwell C scale). The higher the number, the harder and more brittle the steel is.

Sword Steel

Following are some explanations of the different types of steel used in sword making.

Simple Alloy Steel: This series of steel has a small amount of alloying elements in it and is comprised mostly of carbon and iron. The steel is often designated with a four-digit number (Ex. 10XX). The last two digits vary, indicating the percentage of carbon in the steel. The higher the carbon content, the harder and more brittle the steel. Carbon contents above 1% become incredibly hard, and can be difficult to use in sword lengths, although there are some custom smiths who are very successful with these steels.

Stainless Steel: These are modern steels that contain a chromium content of 8-12% or higher. The chromium gives the steel its stainless characteristics, but is also weakens the grain boundaries in the steel. This causes the steel to be brittle, and, when used in sword-length blades, can cause the blades to fracture very easily when put to use in cutting or even hard swinging. It is a good steel for low-maintenance knives.

Chromium Content: Chromium in large amounts is detrimental to sword steel (as discussed above), but in smaller amounts (less than approx. 5%) it helps in refining the steel grain, and creates a more durable blade. This may seem like the opposite of what it does in stainless steel, but it is a case of "too much of a good thing" can be harmful.

Chrome-Vanadium Steel:  The steel uses both Vanadium and small amounts of Chromium to refine the steel's grain and increase toughness.

Damascus: Damascus properly refers to Indian "Wootz" steel. A type of steel known for its amazing sword characteristics, Damascus blades display an unusual pattern in the steel due to different elements present during the smelting process. This is a bit of an improper term for Pattern-Welded Steel, which displays similar visual characteristics.

Pattern-Welded Steel: This is the process of taking two steels with dissimilar properties and forge-welding them together into a single bar. The bar can then be manipulated by twisting, folding, and other various techniques to give a visible pattern in the steel's surface. Once the bar is forged and rough polished, it is given an etching that brings out the pattern and creates topography in the steel.